Here are a few things that I've done far that worked well and a couple that didn't. I built a 20' x 2' workbench out of a couple of pieces of 1/2" plywood so that I would have a good flat surface for laying out the panels. I bought some newsprint paper 100'x36" and layed it down onto the bench and thumbtacked it in places to hold it down. I stretched a piece of heavy thread between two nails for a straight line then covered it with clear packing tape. I then marked along the line at 1' intervals (labeling them 1 through 18). That made a real good surface for laying out the panels. I'm not in a big rush to finish the boat because it's a long winter here so even though the plans suggest that the scarf joints on the panels can be glued at the same time I think I should have done them separately. You need to be very careful about the scarf joints slipping. Next time I'll glue one set of side panels, then place the other set on top and align them before gluing that set. It'll take an extra day but I think it's worth it. After aligning the panels on the work surface according to the offset marks from the plans I took a long piece of 1/4" thick by 2" wide wood and cut a bunch of pieces about and inch wide. I then placed the flat edge up against the panels and tacked them to the workbench at intervals of about 3'. That holds the alignment real well but when I tried to glue both scarfs together it slipped lengthwise a little. Next time I just need to be a little more careful making sure everything is aligned before letting the epoxy set. I also didn't glue the sheer clamps to the side panels at the same time but I did glue the sheer clamp scarfs at the same time and they came out real nice. Before glueing the sheer clamps to the side panels check that the scarf joints line up. The side panels can be swapped such that the sheer clamps can be glued on either side (but will both end up on the inside). Make sure that the scarf joints are lined up to determine which side the sheer clamps should be installed. Installing the sheer clamps as pretty easy. Make sure that you glue them 1/4-1/3" above the to edge of the side panel at a point where the deck will be highest. It can be tapered down to being flush with the edge at the bow and stern and easily adjusted (don't bother measuring or drawing lines). In the Northbay kit the plans indicate that the sheer clamps should end a few inches before the bow and stern (but doesn't actually tell you how many inches that should be). I set them about 5" from the stern but ran them all the way past the point of the bow before cutting them off and then beveled them at an angle (by stretching a string from the point at the stern to the opposite point at the bow after wiring the stern panels). Next time I'll run the sheer clamps to about 1/4" from the point at the bow. That'll save some time planing and sanding the bevel. When I glued the sheer clamps to the side panels I had some extra epoxy (it'll take about 3 pumps on the resin and hardener to get enough epoxy for each sheer clamp) so I just covered the inside of the panel with a thin coat with what I had left. I realize now that I'll need to sand that off near the joint where the bottom panels fit to get a good fillet. Tonight I'm going to wire the bottom panels to the side panels. I have talked to a couple people about S&G boats that recommend doing a "rolling bevel" down the edges of the panels so that they meet more flush rather than have a gap when the panels are wired at steep angles (ie the side panels at the bow and stern). The CLC documentation, however, doesn't mention anything about it, but I think I'm going to undo some of the wiring I've done and just plane the edges a little to get a tighter fit. I'll let you know how that works.